Tuesday, July 28, 2009
En Vacances
I've just returned from a chocolaty trip to Quebec City, and will soon be headed off to Paris for even more chocolate (even though author Michael Steinberger says "au revoir" to all that)! I'll be back to regular NYC posting duty soon.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Restaurant Week at Matsugen
One of my favorite dining companions recently turned 40, and we decided to celebrate at Matsugen (we are usually over at Zenkichi in Williamsburg). Fortunately, her birthday fell during Restaurant Week (July 12-31), so we were able to enjoy a generous five-course meal at a reasonable price. (Maybe Mayor Bloomberg can have this extended to Restaurant Year.)
At times, Restaurant Week portions are smaller than the average, so I ordered an extra appetizer - six bites of rich grilled eel atop ginger slices and julienned cucumbers. Although a delicious strategy, it proved to be an unnecessary one, as my friend and I were to be completely stuffed at the end of the evening.
We began with warm, spiced edamame and a bowl of cold, soft milky fresh tofu. The mildness and heat was a nice combination. Then we enjoyed a tasty seaweed salad - its ginger dressing avoided the unpalatable vinegar taste that often mars this dish.
Then, we waited, and waited. We looked longingly at the tempura and sushi and black cod on the adjacent table. We waited some more, and then our next-to-last course - soba - made an appearance at our table. "But," I protested, "weren't we supposed to get the tempura, sushi, and the black cod?" The server seemed intent upon depositing the bowls onto the table, but then he had a little conference with the server who had brought out the salads. "You weren't served the tempura, sushi, or black cod?" she came over and asked. I confirmed this, the bowls were taken away, and we waited a while longer.
The aforementioned items were so delectable that it would have been an absolute tragedy if we were denied them. "This is butter in the shape of a cod!" exclaimed my friend, upon digging into the miso-marinated slab of black cod. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was greaseless and delicate, and marinated tuna sushi melted in our mouths with meaty flavor.
We'd both chosen the hot duck soba (as opposed to cold sesame). A complex broth with ginger and yuzu was the setting for tender, fat-edged slices of duck and a healthy portion of thin buckwheat noodles. By now, the restaurant was completely packed, and I wondered if some of the diners used to frequent Honmura An.
A small ceramic cup of green tea pudding (with candle for my friend) was the final course. We plan to return to Matsugen, Restaurant Week or no.
Matsugen: 241 Church St., (212) 925-0202.
At times, Restaurant Week portions are smaller than the average, so I ordered an extra appetizer - six bites of rich grilled eel atop ginger slices and julienned cucumbers. Although a delicious strategy, it proved to be an unnecessary one, as my friend and I were to be completely stuffed at the end of the evening.
We began with warm, spiced edamame and a bowl of cold, soft milky fresh tofu. The mildness and heat was a nice combination. Then we enjoyed a tasty seaweed salad - its ginger dressing avoided the unpalatable vinegar taste that often mars this dish.
Then, we waited, and waited. We looked longingly at the tempura and sushi and black cod on the adjacent table. We waited some more, and then our next-to-last course - soba - made an appearance at our table. "But," I protested, "weren't we supposed to get the tempura, sushi, and the black cod?" The server seemed intent upon depositing the bowls onto the table, but then he had a little conference with the server who had brought out the salads. "You weren't served the tempura, sushi, or black cod?" she came over and asked. I confirmed this, the bowls were taken away, and we waited a while longer.
The aforementioned items were so delectable that it would have been an absolute tragedy if we were denied them. "This is butter in the shape of a cod!" exclaimed my friend, upon digging into the miso-marinated slab of black cod. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was greaseless and delicate, and marinated tuna sushi melted in our mouths with meaty flavor.
We'd both chosen the hot duck soba (as opposed to cold sesame). A complex broth with ginger and yuzu was the setting for tender, fat-edged slices of duck and a healthy portion of thin buckwheat noodles. By now, the restaurant was completely packed, and I wondered if some of the diners used to frequent Honmura An.
A small ceramic cup of green tea pudding (with candle for my friend) was the final course. We plan to return to Matsugen, Restaurant Week or no.
Matsugen: 241 Church St., (212) 925-0202.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria
Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)
1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)
2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)
3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)
4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)
5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)
6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)
7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)
1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)
2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)
3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)
4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)
5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)
6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)
7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)
Monday, July 06, 2009
Sweets News
- What's better than a coffee shop that uses locally roasted, premium coffee beans? One that also serves homemade Italian ices! The cheery Cup on Norman, which opened a month ago in Greenpoint, serves orange, lemon and strawberry ices alongside a selection of coffee drinks made from Brooklyn's Kitten Coffee beans. And if you're especially lucky, you'll visit on a day when the blueberry butter cake (baked by the owner's mother) is in stock. (Cup on Norman, Norman St. between Lorimer & Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, cuponnorman@gmail.com.)
- Chef Yoshie Shirakawa of Dessert Cafe Luxee was a finalist for the 2009 Golden Scoop Award -Almond Board of California Best Dessert Menu. Now you can learn to make green tea chiffon cake and choux a la creme just like her! She'll be teaching two French pastry classes at the cafe on July 12 and 26 - you can take the dessert home when you're finished with the lesson. For reservations, please call (212) 375-1796. (Dessert Cafe Luxee: 6 Clinton St.)
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